Considering Custom Wedding Rings? A Catholic Jeweler Shares What to Expect in the Process.
/JAY ROSS
When I designed wedding rings for my wife and me, it was so easy I barely had to think about it--of course, this is only because I am a third-generation jeweler; at the time (I was in college), my part-time job was working at my dad’s jewelry store,with access to professional casting houses and stone setters. I could have chosen any stone, any design, any metal, any ring, from any one of our many suppliers.
I had literally every option available through a network of professional jewelers, but I opted for a custom design. It was empowering because I already had an idea of how it worked.
Here, if you and your spouse-to-be hope to pursue custom-designed wedding jewelry, tips, considerations, and information to put you in the same position.
Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry
Material
Tradition has voted in favor of precious metal--especially gold wedding rings. In our experience, many customers choose this metal over platinum. Gold is manufactured in an alloy (a metallurgist term meaning a mixture of metals). Rings can be white or yellow gold (or even red or green gold!), all of which have the same amount of pure gold; a similar price should accompany each metal. Be aware that there may be additional labor charges for metals that are more difficult to work with or require special equipment (palladium and platinum are examples).
Allergies
White gold often has a high nickel content, so if you are allergic to nickel, make sure to tell your jeweler. There are nickel-free gold alloys that cost a little more because they have more valuable metals (like palladium) creating the white color instead of nickel. Platinum is also a great option for allergy-prone purchasers.
Contemporary metals
Materials like tungsten, titanium, or even nylon have begun to make an appearance as wedding ring options. While many jewelers have the torches required to repair or size many kinds of metals, some jewelers may refuse or may not be equipped to work on them because contamination of their tools with non-precious metals may negatively affect the tools or otherwise leave residue that can mar future orders in gold, silver, or platinum. Some jewelers may lack experience with these metals. The upside is that these metals are inexpensive, often offer a wide range of very cool colors, and sometimes offer a wide range of mass, which means a ring can feel almost as heavy or as light as you like.
Precious metal considerations for Catholic couples
As Catholics we regularly use incense, candles, formal vestments, and precious metals (think chalices) as part of our celebrations. These precious objects do more than articulate the importance of our sacraments; they illustrate the value we place on the sacraments themselves.
In Exodus, God filled Bezalel with the Holy Spirit to create artistic designs in gold, silver, and bronze (Exod. 31:4); Bezalel was the craftsman who created the Ark of the Covenant. So for those looking to celebrate the sanctity of marriage, in choosing gold you would certainly be in good company!
Developing design ideas
Draw out some thoughts on paper--and don’t be afraid of your artistic talent (or lack thereof!). Many jewelers are used to rough sketches and are able to incorporate your dreams into something truly beautiful.
You might find jewelry that almost suits your tastes, but not quite. You can communicate this by creating a Pinterest board for your jeweler or sending pictures via phone or email. Each of these options gives your jeweler an idea of your aesthetic so he or she can create a piece that matches your style and is structurally sound.
Determining sizes and widths
Width: Many couples go into ring shopping knowing they need a ring size (a measurement of how big the inside of the ring will be), but without an idea of how wide the rings should be (a measurement of how much of the finger is covered by a ring).
The most popular ladies’ wedding bands are between 1.5mm for the very thinnest recommended size, and about 4mm wide for the thickest. Most popular men’s sizes are between 6mm and 10mm. I advise my couples to choose complementary rings, rather than exact matches.
Ring size: Even ordering online, you have many options for determining your ring sizes--many online jewelry stores, for instance, have ring-sizing printables. Alternatively, you can measure your finger with string and then easily google your ring size.
A more precise method, of course, is to visit a local jewelry store to acquire your size in person. At that time, make sure you have developed an idea of the width of your rings first.
A thin ring may fit you perfectly, yet a wider one in the same size might not even go over your knuckle. This is because of the amount of metal that needs to pass over the knuckle varies by width.
You may fall somewhere in the middle of a size. Whatever your size, be sure to take note of this and inform your jeweler beforehand, since some wedding bands cannot be sized after their construction. In my business, some customers prefer to try on a ring created on a 3D printer before it is made in gold, just to make sure it fits perfectly.
Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry
Choosing an artisan
Many towns have independent jewelers, which allows you to support a small business with your purchasing power--something increasingly important to couples who want to shop small.
Also consider different jewelers’ areas of expertise. Maybe you are inspired by the wedding story of Sts. Zelie and Louis Martin, or perhaps a special devotion to Mary has a place in your journey with your spouse. A Catholic artist with this knowledge would be a great fit.
Perhaps you want your ring to utilize a specialty technique like micro-pave (a multitude of tiny diamonds creating a pavement effect) or makume gane (a Japanese technique of laminating multiple metals to create a woodgrain look). Choose an artisan who specializes in what is important to you.
The process
Initial Sketches: A jeweler will help you decide what the rings will look like by drawing a few examples. These are great moments to document and share with family and friends. You can also share these ideas with your children as they plan their own weddings one day! Take pictures or keep the initial sketches your jeweler creates.
Jewelry models: A jeweler may carve your rings out of wax and use the ancient lost-wax method to cast a ring for you out of your choice of metal. Some jewelers will create a 3D printed model that will be melted away just like a wax carving and cast into the couple’s choice of metal. Both options produce beautiful results.
One benefit to 3D-printed models is that they can be mailed to a couple for approval before they are made in metal. Wax, on the other hand, can break easily and then must be carved again. Either option gives you another great milestone to document your wedding-planning journey.
Pouring molten metal: Many jewelers use the lost-wax casting method to create rings. This method actually dates back to Exodus. During this process, the jeweler welds wax models or 3D-printed models to a flat plate using beeswax. A metal cylinder is placed around them, and a mixture of powder and water is poured over the model and left to dry for two to three hours. Then the wax is melted out over the course of roughly eight hours, revealing a negative space that is an exact replica of the rings.
The artisan measures out enough gold to fill the negative space. They melt the metal in a crucible and inject it into the negative space using either vacuum or centrifugal machines. Voila! Your rings have been created! At this time, any stones are set in place by the stone setter. Any (or all!) of these steps are incredibly interesting and can make a great photo opportunity if your artisan can photograph parts of the process. Just ask!
You should expect to pay an average of about $200-500 more for a custom ring set than for pre-made styles. The weight of the rings and the labor involved will ultimately dictate price.
Off-the-shelf rings can appear inexpensive at first, but be aware that precious metals are sold by weight; price fluctuations are either due to less metal or undervalued labor.
For the most important piece you will ever wear, there is certainly great value in considering wedding rings that are entirely unique.
About the Author: Jay holds an MFA from the University of Central Florida. Jay and his wife Angie are Co-Founders of 31:Four Artisan Jewelry--an all-Catholic design and manufacturing studio based in the Orlando area. They are teaching the trade to their four children, who will be fourth-generation jewelers.