A Tiny Chalice Balanced on your Finger

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JAY ROSS

 

When I was asked by a fellow artisan if I could make a chalice for her son—whom she hoped, obviously, would become a priest, I immediately had a ton of questions. 

What metals can be used? Is there anything that can’t be used? How would I use my jewelry equipment to melt that much precious metal and then pour it into something so big as a chalice? After all, I am a jeweler—not a dish-maker! And even if I can make something like a chalice, am I allowed to according to the Church? 

There is actually a wealth of information on this, and it turns out chalices have a lot in common with wedding rings. Maybe more than you think.

Much like wedding rings, it is preferred that chalices are made with precious metal. In the Ecclesia de Eucharistia, a document used for Instruction on liturgical norms, there is an explanation of these intentional preferences.

In addition, Saint John Paul II’s 2003 encyclical Redemptionis Sacramentum states, “Sacred vessels for containing the Body and Blood of the Lord must be made in strict conformity with the norms of tradition and of the liturgical books...It is strictly required, however, that such materials be truly noble in the common estimation within a given region, so that honor will be given to the Lord by their use, and all risk of diminishing the doctrine of the Real Presence of Christ in the Eucharistic species in the eyes of the faithful will be avoided. Reprobated, therefore, is any practice of using for the celebration of Mass common vessels, or others lacking in quality, or devoid of all artistic merit or which are mere containers…”

As a sacred artist, these words are encouraging but not surprising. It’s amazing to read a governing church body advocate for artistic merit in Liturgical practice. 

Though God often has other plans for my life,  I have no intent of repositioning myself as a chalice maker After reading this document, I feel it is my duty to inform people of the similarities between chalices and wedding rings. After all, my calling is to make sacred objects of another type--one that nearly all faithful will wear at some point in their lives: wedding rings.

So I dug a little deeper into the question at hand—why must they be made of precious metal?

I asked my friend Carlos Sacasa, a Canon Lawyer and speaker on prayer and Catholic tradition.  He told me, “Yes, you can make a chalice, but the inner lining that touches the host and the body and blood of Jesus Christ has to be gold.”

“Why gold?,” I asked.

“It is a precious metal. Only precious metals are supposed to be touching the host; it is a sign of reverence. Usually the most traditional chalices are lined with gold.”

Now, there are some priests who may not choose this and use glass vessels instead.But the fact that using gold is a sign of reverence really stood out to me. 

I hear a similar question in my own line of work: Why must wedding rings be made of gold? Why not nylon? Why not titanium? The answer is the same as Mr. Sacasa gave me—it is a precious metal. It is a sign of reverence.

But there is something else. The gold in a chalice  is touching the host. 

Am I going to be so bold as to say that we are as precious as Jesus Christ, incarnate in the Eucharist? Not quite. However, I will remind you that we, the Faithful, are the Body of Christ (1 Corinthians 12:27). What touches our bodies as a sign and symbol of the marital sacrament should be held to the highest standard; especially in the gift that is crafted for a man and woman to reveal their union as one body in front of a congregation at a Holy Mass.

As we think more about the artistic merit, the form and function, of both chalices and rings, they are not merely containers. These are not utilitarian items. There should be craftsmanship and care that goes into their design! 

An extraordinary amount of intention and financial cost goes into the bride’s dress, the dessert (our cake was made with real fruit and flowers by an amazing Frenchman named Bruno), and the decor. Most of these wedding essentials are only enjoyed once or twice. The wedding ring is worn as a unique symbol every day beyond the wedding day. Make it more than a generic container. 

Finally, the occasion of the event requires a standard of reverence in the icons that represent the vows. The sacrament of marriage is a sacrament, and the sacrifice, that spouses perform—for better or worse, sickness or health, rich or poor—on a minute-by-minute basis. Wedding rings are the longest lasting reminder of your marriage vows and should therefore be holy. 

In the celebration of the Mass, Jesus offers his body, blood, soul and divinity to us through the Eucharist. The chalice is the means by which we receive his living sacrifice and participate with him in the sacrament. His offering of himself, as bridegroom, to his Church, the bride, is an image of marriage.

The parallel significance of the sacramentals to be created with precious metals—both a chalice and wedding ring—makes sense in light of the communion of persons and God’s call for holiness through the vocation to married life. 

Catholic wedding rings, if not all wedding rings, should be held as sacred reminders of this holy sacrament. 

Jewelry is a language; wedding rings not only represent but, more significantly, communicate a message of the value one holds about marriage. The wedding ring is sacramental, it is a visible, outward sign which communicates your sacrament to the world. Wedding rings are evangelizing.  

When intention, precision, sacrifice and discernment goes into the process of designing either a chalice or a wedding ring, all who encounter the gift will engage with reverence, with wonder and awe. As an ornate precious metal created either to carry the Body of Christ or to communicate the sacrament of matrimony, these products are holy. 

Something with such meaning and depth should be more than something you purchase off the shelf. Like the Chalice which brings the Church closer to the Eucharist, wedding rings help bring husbands and wives into a sacramental bond. Even more, they bring others into an encounter with Love himself. 

Scripture helps us understand the love God has for his people by creating a parallel with the love between a husband and wife. We are invited to take part in that creative, sacrificial act with Him! I encourage you to approach the sacramental artifacts of your marriage with the same reverence by which you approach the Eucharistic chalice on Sunday morning. By doing so, your marriage becomes a living sign of love: between husband and wife and between Christ and his Church. 

About the Author: Jay holds an MFA from the University of Central Florida. Jay and his wife Angie are Co-Founders of 31:Four Artisan Jewelry--an all-Catholic design and manufacturing studio based in the Orlando area. They are teaching the trade to their four children, who will be fourth-generation jewelers.

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If We are to be Molded by the Creator, May we be Bent into the Shape of a Cross.

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JAY ROSS

 

“When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.” 

I wish I had this quote included in my wedding vows. At the time, I was an evangelical Atheist, (far from the homeschooling Catholic I am now). I fought tooth and nail to remove all traces of scripture from my wedding.

If I could plan my wedding all over again, I would be as malleable to God as metal is to its maker.

Faith was absent from my wedding and every experience of wedding planning. That process did not yield the spiritual fruit that it could have—and should have. If you let it, you will be amazed by the fruits and graces that come with including God in every step of your marriage. 

I am a jeweler. When I make a wedding ring, the metal is heated to over 1,000 degrees celsius (1832 fahrenheit), banged many times with wood or metal, sanded and stripped away, and polished. For gold or platinum, the precious metals most often used for wedding bands, this is not a pleasant process. But the end result is pristine. 

As the creator, I guide the raw materials through a very difficult process to make something beautiful. In how many ways does God desire to do the same with my heart and soul as I am transformed through the sacrament of marriage? How often do difficult experiences form the beauty of our present lives? 

Now, I know, planning a wedding is hard. We were seniors in college, extremely active in a local advocacy group, and working in the jewelry business. We were inexperienced in the realms of adulthood and underprepared for the responsibilities and financial costs associated with planning a wedding. We never considered the lasting effects that could come with intentional planning. And we never anticipated the difficult impact from the common stressors of wedding planning either. 

Yet, over time, I have been refined. But I often wonder what kind of refinement could have happened sooner if I allowed myself to be formed by my Creator earlier in life and earlier in my marriage. 

To have been present in real time, within my wedding planning, I would have had solace in the times I needed it most. I would have realized my potential as a man and spouse before I approached the marriage altar. 

When we have a relationship with Jesus Christ and bring our difficult experiences to him—in prayer, in relationships, or in the Sacraments—he melts our hearts, strips away our burdens, and forms us into the persons he created us to be, into saints. 

As we think of ourselves as a precious metal waiting to be formed into something pristine, the process is not pleasant. I know it is especially hard in the moment to “offer it up.” Yet, we are invited to bring those difficult, painful experiences of refinement to prayer, into an intimate conversation with your Creator. 

God has formed me through my vows so I have a clearer vision of his design for my life, my marriage and my family. I encourage you to bring God to the center of your wedding planning--bring him into everything you do with, and for, your spouse. Not only will you grow closer to each other, but also closer to heaven. 

Ultimately, you are working with your beloved to bring each other to heaven; planning a wedding together can be a great opportunity to deal with stress, to approach sacrifice and suffering as a cross, and to be shaped and formed together. This is the process which creates the most beautiful offering you can present to Our Lord when death do you part.

About the Author: Jay holds an MFA from the University of Central Florida. Jay and his wife Angie are Co-Founders of 31:Four Artisan Jewelry--an all-Catholic design and manufacturing studio based in the Orlando area. They are teaching the trade to their four children, who will be fourth-generation jewelers.

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Wedding Jewelry | How Your Engagement Ring Can Be a Means of Evangelization

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JAY ROSS

 

Weddings are all about “the first:” The first time we plan a major event. The first photo shoot. The first time you buy  a high-quality cake and plan a large catering event. The first time you’re fit for high-end clothing--maybe the first time you’ve seen a tailor. The first time you buy serious jewelry. In a lot of ways, it can seem like we have to invent everything for the first time. 

It can seem like marriage itself has never been done before and that we are blazing the path to do it right--especially with the multitude of options out there.

As a jeweler, I see this with wedding rings and I bet you do, too. When you observe jewelry trends and friends’ and family members’ wedding rings, you can see that they look a lot different than they have in the past 50 years. A lot of these rings aren’t even what we would consider jewelry 20 years ago--rings made of nylon, wood, titanium--even antlers. 

With this redefinition of the wedding ring it’s hard to be able to predict what your spouse-to-be might love.

As you begin designing or shopping for a ring, consider that the materials can take on a spiritual significance and be a witness to a loving God. 

Saint John Paul the Great wrote this Instruction, titled Redemptionis Sacrementum, on liturgical norms: 

[117.] Sacred vessels for containing the Body and Blood of the Lord must be made in strict conformity with the norms of tradition and of the liturgical books...It is strictly required, however, that such materials be truly noble in the common estimation within a given region, so that honor will be given to the Lord by their use, and all risk of diminishing the doctrine of the Real Presence of Christ in the Eucharistic species in the eyes of the faithful will be avoided. Reprobated, therefore, is any practice of using for the celebration of Mass common vessels, or others lacking in quality, or devoid of all artistic merit or which are mere containers....” (emphasis added)

This passage is about chalices. But after reading it, I found it incredibly important to me to educate whoever I meet about this since I realized that it is my calling is to make sacred objects of another type,one that nearly all faithful will wear at some point in their lives--rings. 

My friend Carlos Sacasa, a Canon Lawyer and speaker on prayer and Catholic tradition, says  “[Chalices]...the inner lining that touches to host and the body and blood of Jesus Christ has to be gold.”

This was enlightening. I asked, “Why gold?”

“It is a precious metal.” 

Only precious metals are supposed to be touching the host; it is a sign of reverence. Usually in the most traditional chalices they are lined with gold. As with rings, it’s actually an ancient tradition going back to the very beginning.

In Genesis 24:34-58, Abraham wants to find a wife for his son, Isaac, so he sends his servant, who finds her through a sign from God. When the servant finds her, he gives her a gold ring as a symbol of the betrothal.

So what does it say when choosing rings made of gold? It is a sign of reverence. For those who choose it, the more gold content in the ring, the purer, and the higher the karat, which can mirror the purity of your love. It also reflects the history of our faith: Scripture contains plenty of references to the purity of gold, to refining, to the crucible in both the Old and New Testaments. (Gold, of course, goes back to Exodus and is mentioned even in the creation section of Genesis--Gen. 2:12)). Diamonds are not mentioned--that doesn’t mean you can’t include them, but if a Scripturally rich ring interests you, consider that investing in a higher karat gold can ultimately amount to a similar price point as diamonds would.

In addition to materials, give some thought to the process itself. At our company, my wife and I ask clients to share their intentions as we are melting the gold for their wedding rings; we are honored to bring to God in the melting of this metal and the creation of their rings.

Any jeweler should be able to keep a small part of the materials from your engagement ring to be incorporated into your wedding rings when you purchase those. The pieces will be melted together, all three pieces of the same whole. A beautiful representation of the trinity. 

Lastly, consider the symbolism of certain stones and faith elements in your rings. In my company’s own experience, we’ve created rings that represented the sacrament of marriage, in a way that told the unique love story of the couple who bought them: in Texas the anastasis of Jesus Christ was incorporated (we used carved lilies and crosses to represent death and resurrection of both Jesus Christ’s passion and the death and resurrection of marriage). In Chicago, we represented the trinity using Celtic knots--and a mission trip to Tanzania using Tanzanite. We’ve done Melkite imagery. Stem lilies for St. Joseph. Anchors of Stella Mar. The list goes on. 

Artistic merit is not only present in these pieces of sacramental jewelry--it is fittingly representative of a Catholic sacrament. Feel free to email me at jesse@thirtyonefour.com even if you’re not our customer; I can help with the process of budgeting for labor and materials with any jeweler.

What, then, do you think she’s going to do when people ask your bride about her ring? She is going to evangelize. She is going to bring them home to Jesus Christ.

Here, my tips for incorporating these elements of evangelization with any jeweler you work with. 

Ask your jeweler about custom designing a ring with elements of your faith.

When they cast this ring in gold (some jewelers are only resellers that won’t be able to do this, but it’s easy enough to find one who makes the jewelry there in the shop), ask them to pray for your intentions.

Choose a higher karat.

Additionally, if you want stones for a ring, we (or any jeweler in your town) can walk you through the process of spending at a low price point for a cubic zirconia to a bigger investment for a beautiful gemstone like sapphire, emerald, ruby, or a synthetic or genuine diamond. The point is to at least be cognizant of the purchase and not to put all the weight there on the stone, but to redistribute the spending so you can make a more meaningful statement not only to your fiancée, but ultimately to the world at large, using the language of jewelry.

About the Author: Jay holds an MFA from the University of Central Florida. Jay and his wife Angie are Co-Founders of 31:Four Artisan Jewelry--an all-Catholic design and manufacturing studio based in the Orlando area. They are teaching the trade to their four children, who will be fourth-generation jewelers.

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Considering Custom Wedding Rings? A Catholic Jeweler Shares What to Expect in the Process.

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JAY ROSS

 

When I designed wedding rings for my wife and me, it was so easy I barely had to think about it--of course, this is only because I am a third-generation jeweler; at the time (I was in college), my part-time job was working at my dad’s jewelry store,with access to professional casting houses and stone setters. I could have chosen any stone, any design, any metal, any ring, from any one of our many suppliers. 

I had literally every option available through a network of professional jewelers, but I opted for a custom design. It was empowering because I already had an idea of how it worked.

Here, if you and your spouse-to-be hope to pursue custom-designed wedding jewelry, tips, considerations, and information to put you in the same position. 

Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry

Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry

Material

Tradition has voted in favor of precious metal--especially gold wedding rings. In our experience, many customers choose this metal over platinum. Gold is manufactured in an alloy (a metallurgist term meaning a mixture of metals). Rings can be white or yellow gold (or even red or green gold!), all of which have the same amount of pure gold; a similar price should accompany each metal. Be aware that there may be additional labor charges for metals that are more difficult to work with or require special equipment (palladium and platinum are examples). 

Allergies

White gold often has a high nickel content, so if you are allergic to nickel, make sure to tell your jeweler. There are nickel-free gold alloys that cost a little more because they have more valuable metals (like palladium) creating the white color instead of nickel. Platinum is also a great  option for allergy-prone purchasers. 

Contemporary metals

Materials like tungsten, titanium, or even nylon have begun to make an appearance as wedding ring options. While many jewelers have the torches required to repair or size many kinds of metals, some jewelers may refuse or may not be equipped to work on them because contamination of their tools with non-precious metals may negatively affect the tools or otherwise leave residue that can mar future orders in gold, silver, or platinum. Some jewelers may lack experience with these metals. The upside is that these metals are inexpensive, often offer a wide range of very cool colors, and sometimes offer a wide range of mass, which means a ring can feel almost as heavy or as light as you like. 

Precious metal considerations for Catholic couples

As Catholics we regularly use incense, candles, formal vestments, and precious metals (think chalices) as part of our celebrations. These precious objects do more than articulate the importance of our sacraments; they illustrate the value we place on the sacraments themselves. 

In Exodus, God filled Bezalel with the Holy Spirit to create artistic designs in gold, silver, and bronze (Exod. 31:4); Bezalel was the craftsman who created the Ark of the Covenant. So for those looking to celebrate the sanctity of marriage, in choosing gold you would certainly be in good company!

Developing design ideas 

Draw out some thoughts on paper--and don’t be afraid of your artistic talent (or lack thereof!). Many jewelers are used to rough sketches and are able to incorporate your dreams into something truly beautiful. 

You might find jewelry that almost suits your tastes, but not quite. You can communicate this by creating a Pinterest board for your jeweler or sending pictures via phone or email. Each of these options gives your jeweler an idea of your aesthetic so he or she can create a piece that matches your style and is structurally sound. 

 Determining sizes and widths

Width: Many couples go into ring shopping knowing they need a ring size (a measurement of how big the inside of the ring will be), but without an idea of how wide the rings should be (a measurement of how much of the finger is covered by a ring). 

The most popular ladies’ wedding bands are between 1.5mm for the very thinnest recommended size, and about 4mm wide for the thickest. Most popular men’s sizes are between 6mm and 10mm. I advise my couples to choose complementary rings, rather than exact matches. 

Ring size: Even ordering online, you have many options for determining your ring sizes--many online jewelry stores, for instance, have ring-sizing printables. Alternatively, you can measure your finger with string and then easily google your ring size. 

A more precise method, of course, is to visit a local jewelry store to acquire your size in person. At that time, make sure you have developed an idea of the width of your rings first.

A thin ring may fit you perfectly, yet a wider one in the same size might not even go over your knuckle. This is because of the amount of metal that needs to pass over the knuckle varies by width. 

You may fall somewhere in the middle of a size. Whatever your size, be sure to take note of this and inform your jeweler beforehand, since some wedding bands cannot be sized after their construction. In my business, some customers prefer to try on a ring created on a 3D printer before it is made in gold, just to make sure it fits perfectly.

Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry

Photography: c/o 31 Four Artisan Jewelry

Choosing an artisan

Many towns have independent jewelers, which allows you to support a small business with your purchasing power--something increasingly important to couples who want to shop small. 

Also consider different jewelers’ areas of expertise. Maybe you are inspired by the wedding story of Sts. Zelie and Louis Martin, or perhaps a special devotion to Mary has a place in your journey with your spouse. A Catholic artist with this knowledge would be a great fit. 

 Perhaps you want your ring to utilize a specialty technique like micro-pave (a multitude of tiny diamonds creating a pavement effect) or makume gane (a Japanese technique of laminating multiple metals to create a woodgrain look). Choose an artisan who specializes  in what is important to you. 

The process

Initial Sketches: A jeweler will help you decide what the rings will look like by drawing a few examples. These are great moments to document and share with family and friends. You can also share these ideas with your children as they plan their own weddings one day! Take pictures or keep the initial sketches your jeweler creates. 

Jewelry models: A jeweler may carve your rings out of wax and use the ancient lost-wax method to cast a ring for you out of your choice of metal. Some jewelers will create a 3D printed model that will be melted away just like a wax carving and cast into the couple’s choice of metal. Both options produce beautiful results. 

One benefit to 3D-printed models is that they can be mailed to a couple for approval before they are made in metal. Wax, on the other hand, can break easily and then must be carved again. Either option gives you another great milestone to document your wedding-planning journey. 

Pouring molten metal: Many jewelers use the lost-wax casting method to create rings. This method actually dates back to Exodus. During this process, the jeweler welds wax models or 3D-printed models to a flat plate using beeswax. A metal cylinder is placed around them, and a mixture of powder and water is poured over the model and left to dry for two to three hours. Then the wax is melted out over the course of roughly eight hours, revealing a negative space that is an exact replica of the rings. 

The artisan measures out enough gold to fill the negative space. They melt the metal in a crucible and inject it into the negative space using either vacuum or centrifugal machines. Voila! Your rings have been created! At this time, any stones are set in place by the stone setter. Any (or all!) of these steps are incredibly interesting and can make a great photo opportunity if your artisan can photograph parts of the process. Just ask!

You should expect to pay an average of about $200-500 more for a custom ring set than for pre-made styles. The weight of the rings and the labor involved will ultimately dictate price. 

Off-the-shelf rings can appear inexpensive at first, but be aware that precious metals are sold by weight; price fluctuations are either due to less metal or undervalued labor.  

For the most important piece you will ever wear, there is certainly great value in considering wedding rings that are entirely unique.

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About the Author: Jay holds an MFA from the University of Central Florida. Jay and his wife Angie are Co-Founders of 31:Four Artisan Jewelry--an all-Catholic design and manufacturing studio based in the Orlando area. They are teaching the trade to their four children, who will be fourth-generation jewelers.

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